Burley EZ-Pull install (5spd transmission)
Left hand tired from yanking that clutch all the time? I installed a "Easyboy Lite Clutch Lever Kit" by BURLY, in my 1995 Dyna and posted the install to help anyone who's interested in doing it to their bike.
Pull your clutch cable adjusting boot back, or in my case, remove the blingy cover. Unadjust your cable by loosening the lock nut and running the barrel all the way inside the adjuster.
Place a drain pan under your trans, and drain the fluid out. You may not have to drain it all as the cover is elevated while the bike's on the jiffy -stand, but I was due anyway.
Next, take out your dipstick and remove the 6 allen screws from the cover. Once out, you may have to tap the cover with a rubber mallet to break the seal from the old gasket. Make sure you get a new gasket for the reinstall, as the old one usually tears.
Remove the cover. Once the cover is off, there's a large C-Clip holding the mechanism together in the cover. You need to remove that C-clip to get the outer ramp/rotator out, to turn it and release the end of the cable. You'll note after the clip comes out, there are only a few pieces.
1.) Outer rotator/ramp
2.) Inner ramp
3.) 3 balls
4.) small cable end retaining arm
After you've removed the cover's internals, you can now thread the cable housing OUT of the cover. Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosey. You'll need to do this to add the supplied spacer on the cable housing.
There's an O-Ring where the cable meets the housing. Retain it, or replace it depending on its condition. Make sure you see it before putting things back together, or your trans will leak at the housing, where the cable goes in.
Next, you want to install the kit on your outer ramp/rotator. It's as simple as a bolt, a nut and the part that alters/extends the leverage point. Although it was a pinch type bolt, I used Locktite RED anyway. The bolt is an allen and the nut is 7/16". Not rocket science......
Here it is, installed on the arm.
Note the position of the outer ramp arm with the part on it. It's past the center where the rib/boss is. When you install everything back in the cover, use some thick grease to hold the balls from rolling around and out of a ramp pocket.
Before you put everything back in the cover, you want to reinstall the cable back into your cover, with the O-ring and the spacer that comes with the kit. The spacer goes on the cable first, then the O-Ring. The cable threads back into the cover and for now, just snug it by hand.
Once the cable is in, you can start putting things back together. You'll need to drop in your inner ramp, (paying attention to the slot the tab goes in in the cover) put grease in the ball cups, add the 3 balls.
I drew a line on the arm and the retainer so you could see which way it goes, as it only fits one way. You need to weasel the cable onto the retainer then get it to go onto the outer ramp, in the slot. It took me 2 tries before I got it. It was snug, but it fits.
Once you get the cable end back in with the retainer, you can place the outer ramp on the inner ramp over top of the balls and reinstall the C-clip retainer to hold everything in.
Install a new gasket.....
Put the cover back on and tighten the 6 allens to the correct torque, per your manual.
Refill your trans with your preferred fluid and replace the dipstick. I use RedLine Heavy Shock Synthetic, hence the pink coloring.
Tighten your clutch cable into the housing (9/16" wrench) to prevent leaks.
Readjust your cable length and lever play again.
Test ride and enjoy a nice, easier pulling clutch lever. Cable adjustment came out to be about the same, as lengthening the clutch actuation arm's length and bring it closer to the cable end makes the cable longer, but the spacer takes up that slack. The results were impressive and I'm happy with the change.