Demon's 114 C.I.Engine Owner's ManualUltima Company, LLC and Demon’s Cycle are not representatives of any other motorcycle manufacturer and the parts we sell are not necessarily recommended by any other motorcycle manufacturer. All words used in this catalog denoting any motorcycle manufacturer, models or motorcycle, or part numbers are intended for use as reference only. Although our replacement engines are not original factory equipment for some manufacturers, our intention is to provide an exceptional quality replacement part that will outperform the original equipment of many OEM manufacturers. Harley-Davidson® Parts: Harley® and Harley-Davidson® and other model names of Harley® motorcycles are used as a reference only. Some H-D® part numbers are also used as reference only. We are not an authorized Harley® dealer and in no way do we have, or intend to imply any kind of business relationship with Harley-Davidson Motor Company®. Our intention is to provide products that can be used on a Harley-Davidson® motorcycle. Names and words that are registered trademarks of Harley-Davidson® Inc. Milwaukee, WI, such as Evolution®, Harley-Davidson®, Harley®, H-D®, HD®, and Softail® are not intended to imply that they are Harley-Davidson® original equipment by their use in connection with Harley-Davidson® factory part numbers. The following model designations for Harley-Davidson® motorcycles are used in this catalog for reference only: EL, FL, FLH, FLHR, FLHS, FLHT, FLHTC, FLHTC-I, FLHTC Ultra Classic, FLHX, FLST, FLSTC, FLSTF, FLSTN, FLSTS, FLT, FLTC, FLTC Ultra Classic, FXB, FXD, FXDB, FXDC, FXDG, FXDL, FXDS, FXDS-Conv., FXDWG, FXE, FXEF, FXLR, FXR, FXRC, FXRD, FXRDG, FXRP, FXRS, FXRSE, FXRS-Conv., FXRS-SP, FXRT, FXS, FXSB, FXST, FXSTC, FXSTS, FXSTSB, FXWG, GE, K, KH, WL, WLA, XL, XLCH, XLCR, XLH, XLH 883, XLH 1100, XLH 1200, XLR, XLS, XLT, XLX AND XR-1000. All other trademarks, registered trademarks and brand names used in this catalog are the property of their respective holders. WARNING Serious injury, death and property damage can result from the improper use, control, alteration, or maintenance of motorcycles. The dealer and dealers customers must exercise good judgement in the use, control, alteration, part selection and installation, and maintenance of motorcycles. Demon’s Cycle has no control over the judgement of others and assumes no responsibility or liability of any nature for the failure of others to use good judgement.
DEMON’S CYCLE ENGINE WARRANTY
DEMON’S CYCLE 114 C.I. ENGINE WARRANTY: Demon’s Cycle 114 C.I. engines are guaranteed to the original purchaser to be free of manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 12 months from the date of purchase. Merchandise that fails to conform to these conditions will be repaired by Ultima if the parts are returned to Midwest Motorcycle Supply by the purchaser within the specified warranty period or within 10 days thereafter. Cost associated with removing or installation of complete engines are not covered under this warranty. This warranty covers Ultima® parts only and no other associated expenses. In the event that any warranty service is required, the original purchaser must call or write Midwest Motorcycle Supply immediately with the problem. Many problems can be rectified by a telephone call and need no further course of action. Merchandise that is suspected of being defective must not be replaced by a Dealer or End User without prior authorization from Midwest Motorcycle Supply. If it is deemed necessary for Ultima to make an evaluation to determine whether the part was defective, it must be packaged properly to prevent further damage and be returned prepaid to Midwest Motorcycle Supply. You must include a copy of the original invoice and a detailed letter outlining the nature of the problem. You must also outline how the part was used and the circumstances at the time of failure. If, after an evaluation has been made by Ultima and the part was found to be defective, repair to the existing part or replacement will be grantedat Ultima’s discretion. Engines that have been modified in any way from the original purchased configuration will have the warranty void. ADDITIONAL WARRANTY PROVISIONS:
For any warranty issues please contact: Ultima Company LLC • 2100 Highway Z, Pevely, MO 63070 • 314-773-3064 • tech@midwestmc.net GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS - DEMON’S CYCLE 114”
NOTE (1) CAM INFORMATION 114 CI Demon’s Cycle engine: MW 248 Cam (measured at 1.69 rocker arm ratio) Timing information is Open/Close @ .053
Installation Notes:Demon’s Cycle Engines must be installed by a trained professional mechanic into a motorcycle for which its use was intended. Failure to do so may result in injury and even death. It is the customer’s responsibility to insure their mechanic has proper training. Fitment and Clearance Issues:Every effort has been made to insure these engines will install into most available frame models without modifications. Some of the known fitment issues we have encountered are listed below. Please read these carefully as they will aid in installation. Fitment Issues: All Crank Cases
Fitment Issues: Cylinder 114 Ci1. On some frames using offset engines and forward controls it may be necessary to space the inner shift arm or the shifter mounting bracket away from the front cylinder fins to provide adequate clearance between the shift arm or rod and the cylinder fins. Fitment Issues: Cylinder Heads 114 Ci1. If installing these engines into a Stock Style Softail® type frames it will be necessary to relocate the coil and bracket. Oil Pump Fittings Identification:Demon’s Cycle engines use a 1992 & later style oil pump as shown in Figure 2.
Oil Line Routing As you can see, both tanks have an internal return line that goes to the far side of the tank to improve oil circulation. If you are using this type of tank you must have the TO RETURN) return line connected to the correct fitting. NEVER ASSUME YOUR OIL TANK IS CLEAN ENOUGH. THESE LINES OUTSIDE LINE MUST BE CONNECTED PROPERLY TO THE OIL TANK AND FILTER HOUSING OR ENGINE FAILURE CAN OCCUR!!!
Oil Recommendations For the first 500 miles of operation we recommend using high quality petroleum based API service SJ rated motor oils. The oil’s viscosity should be matched with the climate conditions but in most cases 20w50 motor oil will work fine for break-in and standard operation. Oil Filters All Demon’s Cycle engines require oil filters. Oil filter mounting bolts are located on the right side of the engine case made to accept 92/99 FXST® style filter mounts. When using this type of filter housing make sure the lines are routed as shown in Figure 5. Any high quality 40 Micron filters can be used with any style of filter mount. Oil Coolers Demon’s Cycle recommends oil coolers in applications where heavy loads are pulled or ambient temperatures exceed 90˚F or oil temps exceed 210˚F. When choosing an oil cooler, it is best to choose one that is finned & forward mounted on the frame. When using oil coolers in cold temperatures, either install a thermostat or a cover to insure the oil temperature makes it to a minimum operating temperature of 150˚F. Charging system selection Demon’s Cycle engines are supplied with a main seal spacer for use with 32 amp charging systems. This spacer was used on most 19 through 32 amp-charging systems supplied on Shovelhead® and Evolution® engines (except 1995 & later FLT®). If you use a higher output 38, 40 or 44 amp system you must change the spacer to that system’s specific spacer or the Stator Rotor will contact the crankcase. You will also have to replace the engine main seal. GENERAL INFORMATION
Compression Release Valves PCV System and Rocker Boxes: Clutch and Driveline Considerations: Primary Belt Drive Considerations:When installing belt drives on Demon’s Cycle engines it is recommended that RTV silicone be applied behind the stator where the casting meets the steel liner & between the crankshaft splines & the rotor spacer. Be sure to clean area thoroughly beforehand to insure adhesion & curing of the silicone. See Fig 1. & Fig 2.
After applying the silicone. Install the stator onto the motor case. It is also recommended that a liberal amount of blue loctite (med. Strength) be applied to the stator bolts. See fig 3. & 4.
Demon’s Cycle 114 CI engines will typically have no starting problems when using components with comparable power ratings as used on OEM motorcycles built after 1989. Typically a starter with a 1.4 to 1.75kw rating when used with a quality AGM battery & high quality battery cables will give the best performance on our 114 CI engines. Gearing Considerations:When installing a performance engine selecting the proper gearing is very important in achieving the performance levels you desire. In many cases engines with less power that are geared properly can outperform more powerful engines that are geared poorly for particular applications. Another important factor is gross vehicle weight. Motorcycles that are heavy should not be geared with highway gears and a Six Speed unless the engine used is very, very powerful. On these types of bikes a 3.2-3.37 ratio will give much better acceleration. On most late model motorcycles the factory gearing is a good choice for all around riding. In lighter bikes we recommend a 2.92 to 3.15 overall ratio for highway riding. On heavier bikes used for highway riding or lighter bikes wanting quick acceleration for around town riding use 3.23 to 3.37 overall ratio. The following rpm/mph figures are based on a rear tire diameter of 26" or 12.5" from the ground to the center of your axle. Changing tire diameter 1" = approx. 2.6 mph. Some common gear ratios are:
Exhaust System SelectionDemon’s Cycle engines can be very exhaust-system sensitive and proper selection of exhaust system will yield the highest power levels. Horsepower and torque tests were done with Hooker Step Tuned drag pipes and Hooker 2 into 1 systems. When selecting exhaust systems avoid large diameter pipes that do not have a smaller primary pipe that exits the head for at least 4-8” and avoid installing torque cones as these were made for small cubic inch engines (80ci-96ci). Overall the owner’s satisfaction of the selected pipe is most important but it can also have a negative effect on rated power levels. For peak power levels a good stepped exhaust (1-3/4” Primary 4”-8” long to 2” pipe 12”16” long to 2-1/4” pipe for the balance) drag pipe 32”-38” long will yield the highest numbers. For all around rideability select a free flowing staggered dual muffler set or the 2 into 1 systems. There are many exhaust systems out there with just as many opinions on what works. Contact your exhaust manufacturer for suggestions on which exhaust system would best work for your size engine. Spark plugs Recommendations:There are a variety of spark plug manufacturers who make the proper style and heat range plugs for these engines. While OEM H-D® plug heat ranges will work perfect in most cases on smaller engines, we recommend using a colder heat range plug on engines pulling heavy loads. Engines that have excessive spark knock may require a colder heat range and or richer air/fuel mixtures and retard the timing. We also recommend using the coldest plug your combination/environment and fuel will allow for best overall engine life and performance. Plugs that are too cold may foul easily under certain conditions and plugs that are too hot can cause spark knock and detonation. Some popular manufacturers and heat ranges are listed below. Follow your plug manufacturer’s recommendations for proper plug gap.
Ignition Systems • INSTALLATION NOTES
Setting Aftermarket Ignition Systems These instructions are provided for professional mechanics when replacing the OEM Ultima® fixed curved ignitions after warranty. Installing aftermarket ignitions during the warranty period on any Demon’s Cycle engine will void your warranty. (For TOTAL TIMING requirements use the information supplied in this book and not from any ignition manufacturer.) Timing Marks 
Mark 1. = (T:F) Top Dead Center on the Front cylinder—The TDC mark is used for most electronic ignitions as the reference point to begin the static timing process. When using this mark for timing you must be on the compression stroke on the front cylinder and both valves should be closed. This mark is also used when checking total timing with a Dial Back type timing light. Mark 2. = Advanced Timing mark for the front cylinder — This mark is used for ignitions that have mechanical advance weights as the reference point to begin the static timing process. (You must still rotate the point cam or trigger rotor to full advance to use this mark and static time properly.) This mark is also the reference when using a regular timing light to check total timing for all ignitions. When checking timing with a light you must use the front cylinder plug wire and turn off any multi spark functions your ignition may have. You must also rev the engine high enough to bring the system to full advance to check properly. Some ignitions have very slow curves that may require you to rev the engine to 5000 rpm before it gets to full advance. We do not recommend these. Instead we prefer to select a point from the manufacturers’ advertised curve at 3000 to 3500 rpm max to verify this type of curve. This can give you an idea of how close the curve is to advertised data. On larger cubic inch engines the total timing is very important to engine life and performance. If your ignition does not meet the advertised curve be very cautious and replace or reset the part immediately. Mark 3. = (R) Advanced timing mark for Rear Cylinder. This mark is only a reference and is rarely used for ignition timing. Some ignitions offer an adjustment for rear cylinder and front cylinder timing spreads where this mark can be useful. An example of this is a Dyna S single fire ignition and Crane HI4. We recommend you verify the rear cylinder timing if using these ignitions. Mark 4. = ( Range of timing hole: Shown with Mark (2). When timing an engine with a 25˚ mark on the flywheel, if the mark is to the front of the hole the total timing is Retarded to 21 degrees. If the mark is to the rear of the hole the total timing is advanced to 29 degrees. When in the center of the hole this mark represents 25 degrees of advance for the front cylinder. This can also be useful when using certain ignitions on larger engines where the slowest curve still advances the timing past the recommendations below. Many Electronic Ignitions have good curves but with too much total timing. You can retard the base timing and change the entire curve by moving the TDC mark to the Retard side of the timing hole prior to the static timing process to make the advertised curve produce the desired total timing. When setting the timing on any engine we recommend using a timing light to verify the ignition timing is accurate. Initial timing of the ignition system Engine Displacement - 114" Carburetors and Initial TuningYour Demon’s Cycle engine has been supplied with a Mikuni Carburetor that will require initial setting to be made prior to Initial start-up. Typically higher elevations or hotter climates will require different jetting and ignition timing than those shown in this guideline. At any elevation it is important that your initial tune is not excessively rich, which is indicated by excessive black smoke, and equally important, avoid running the engine lean for the initial break in as this condition creates heat fast. Prior to starting your engine you should check your carburetor’s initial idle mixture setting and fuel pump setting recommended by the manufacturer. Demon’s Cycle provides the proper base line jetting for each engines size but idle mixture and fuel pump setting must be done on an individual basis. When selecting the initial jetting for your engine remember that exhaust systems and ignition settings can have a great effect on the engine’s fuel demands. An experienced tuner must make the final decision for your particular jetting needs with your combination and at your elevation. Thoroughly read and understand your carburetor instructions before installing it or starting your engine. Baseline Jetting Suggestions for 114 CI Mikuni 42mm - 170/25 Mikuni 45mm - 175/27.5 Mikuni 48mm - 175/25 S&S ‘G’ - 78/31 S&S ‘D’ - 82/31 START UP AND BREAK IN RECOMMENDATIONSTo give your engine maximum life and performance please read these recommendations thoroughly. These recommendations are assuming that your engine has been installed by a professional mechanic and all aspects of proper engine installation have been addressed. Pre-Start ChecksOil System: Some things that you should not do prior to starting your engine are:
Priming the oil system prior to Start-upAll engines must be checked for oil pressure prior to start up. Oil pressure should be visible at the top end feed screen plug, which is located to the rear of the rear lifter block on the cam cover side. See Figure 6. To verify that you have pressure before running your engine follow these steps: Make sure you have filled your oil tank with clean engine oil and no oil lines are crimped.
5. Continue to crank the engine for approx. 20 seconds total. You will now have oil to the lifters and can start the engine. Note: If you have difficulty priming your engine’s oil pump you can remove the oil pump’s check ball (see Figure 6) and fill the check ball cavity with engine oil and then reinstall the check ball. By doing this you are removing air pockets in the pump and flooding the pump’s feed gears with oil. Generally this will greatly speed the priming process. Fuel Recommendations Initial Start Up
Some of the things you must not do to a new engine are:
While these things may seem unimportant please consider that new engines create much more heat than engines that have been broke in. Remember these are Air Cooled engines. On the initial start we recommend letting the engine run approx. 2 minutes then letting it cool before repeating this procedure. Do overall checks before restarting. Do not over heat the engine! For each 2 minute cycle, run the engine at idle 10-15 seconds then at 2000-2600 rpm for 10-15 seconds. Check and verify that your engine has adequate oil pressure and is returning oil to the oil tank. After you have run the engine for approx. 4-5 minutes, verify that no intake air leaks or oil leaks are present. Do not let the engine get excessively hot! You can now TAKE YOUR FIRST RIDE! Break-in procedures for Demon’s Cycle EnginesFollow these guidelines closely or you may void your warranty. Avoid over heating your engine!!!!!!!!!!! The heat of a new engine can be directly related to engine rpm, load and friction. Do not lug the engine. If you have a 6-speed transmission do not run your bike in 6th gear during break-in. We strongly recommend you keep the engine rpm above 2400 and below 3500 rpm for the first 500 miles and run the engine at varying speeds. Setting the Idle at a minimum of 900-1100 rpm during break–in is desired. Short trips under 10 miles and not in traffic on the first 2 rides are preferred. Try to ride on cool evenings and do not idle the bike very long. Keep air moving around the engine to keep it cool. Making the next 3-4 trips fewer than 30 miles will help to keep the heat down. When taking your initial rides on your new engine do so riding solo to avoid lugging the engine. If the engine feels like it is getting excessively hot shut it down and let it cool. Typical engine oil operating temperatures are 165°F-205°F degrees and should not be exceeded. If an engine overheats during break-in due to improper ignition timing, improper jetting, or excessive heat you can collapse or (stick) a piston which may not be covered under warranty. During the first 500 miles of operation we highly recommend running the engines on open road at varying engine speeds. If you have an oil temperature gauge try to keep your engine oil temperature below 200°F degrees even after break-in. For the first 1000-1500 miles you should monitor your engine temperature and always avoid prolonged idling or sitting in traffic. If you get stuck in traffic pull over and take a break. DO NOT break-in your engine at Daytona or Sturgis or any other rally. After 2000 miles avoid running your engine above 6000 rpm and if your ignition has a rev limiter, set it to work at this RPM. In stock Demon’s Cycle engines no additional power is made above 6000 rpm and running the engines at these higher rpm’s will only shorten engine life especially on poorly tuned engines. Break-In Service and Hardware Re-torquingWith a new engine we feel the first oil/filter change should occur after the first 50-100 miles and all cover bolts and engine-mounting bolts should be checked for proper torque. Keeping your engine oil clean is very important to the overall life of the engine. During the Break-In, or look at it as the “Wear-In” period, engines produce very small metallic pieces that need a good filter to remove them. We do not recommend extremely fine 10-micron filters during this time as they can clog quickly and begin to by-pass oil instead of filtering it. Use the 40 Micron Filters during break-in and for the life of the engine. Checking cover bolts and engine mounting bolts is just good preventative maintenance during this period. See Torque Specifications on the following page for Specifications. Dyno TuningAfter your engine’s break-in procedure has been strictly adhered to we recommend that you have your engine dyno tuned for optimum performance. Typically a new engine will have different fuel demands than an engine that has been through the break-in procedure and additional tuning may be required for optimum performance and reliability. TroubleshootingBelow you will find a list of common issues we have encountered with new engine installations. If you do not see your problem or cannot resolve one of these problems please contact your dealer for more information. Engine Won’t Start Excessive lifter noise If you have excessive lifter noise at start-up shut the engine off immediately and go through the priming process described earlier in this document. Demon’s Cycle engines are primed from the factory but if no oil is being fed from the oil pump the lifters will lose their prime quickly. Engines that are run with dry lifters are at risk to bend pushrods and can have permanent damage. Always check the pressure when diagnosing this with a quality pressure gauge reading from the oil-sending unit feed hole located behind the rear lifter block. Refer to Figure 3 and 4, in the “Oil Line Routing” heading earlier in this booklet, or your oil tank’s manufacturer regarding oil line connections to your tank if you are unsure. If you hook the oil lines up wrong you can damage the engine!! A good rule of thumb is the feed line is the lowest fitting in the oil tank and will pick up oil from the bottom of the tank. The vent line is the highest fitting and oil should never be able to reach the line inside the tank. The vent line has to be in airspace in the tank and never immersed in oil. The return line is also a fitting mounted high in the tank and can work in or out of the oil in the tank but should also be in airspace. Lifter Adjustment procedure for Demon’s Cycle Engines When performing any service work always disconnect the battery!!! Remove the spark plugs and pushrod tube clips to access the pushrods. With a stable lift get the rear wheel of the bike off of the ground and put the bike in 5th gear. Use the rear wheel to rotate the engine slowly. Never rotate the engine with the Starter motor while adjusting pushrods.
Oil blowing out of Cylinder Head Breather Vents:Common causes:
4. Filter has a check valve and lines are crossed (this will sometimes cause the filter to burst). Typically this problem occurs when either the engine is not returning oil or the crankcase vent is not open to the oil tank. The most common cause is when Softail® style tanks are used and get over filled. Do not fill these tanks up to the bottom of the filler. Most tanks have oil lines internally that bring the vent and return to the top side so it will be in airspace and not immersed in oil which is very important to be correct. Some tanks have the return side routed to the far side of the tank to improve oil circulation. These tanks must have the return line on the proper hose barb or when they are hooked up as a vent they can be immersed in oil when on the kickstand which can also cause the problem. Also be careful of oil filter housings. If you have over filled your oil tank and have this problem you must drain the engine’s crankcase before refilling. Our Engine Cases have a drain plug located at the bottom of the engine and you can drain the case if needed. When refilling the oil tank only put in about 2.5-3 quarts before starting the engine and add additional oil cautiously. Unfortunately it is hard to say how much oil your tank will hold without this happening again so if you experience this be precise on the amount you add to your tank on the refill during oil changes. We have seen some aftermarket housings that were not drilled from the factory causing the return side to be completely blocked. We have also seen directional filters, which will only work with oil flowing in the proper direction. Be sure that your filter and housing are routed properly and passages are not blocked. General Torque Specs and Adjustments
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) TDC on the rear cylinder. This mark is rarely used for ignition timing and is only listed as a reference for professional engine builders or when checking timing on the rear cylinder with a dial back type timing light. 
